CHARLESTON CHEW
When you visit someplace for the first time, one of the keys to it’s enjoyment is embracing open mindedness. I had few expectations from my week in “the Holy City” and I was resigned to going with the flow. The occasion was my wife’s family gathering this year in South Carolina. I would be joining my in-laws, and I was determined to be one of the “ins” and not the “out.”
As always, my camera was my trusty companion. We stayed in an amazing house whose comfortable front porch faced a tranquil lake with a surrounding path that was the perfect track for my morning runs. It was a great vantage point for watching the water fowl… and a very relaxing spot to drink beer. Charleston was a short ride away, over the Arthur Ravenal Jr. Bridge, and we took several trips into town and explored the local sights.
Charleston is a walking town. The only other way I would contemplate to discover it’s charms would be in one of it’s horse-drawn carriages. Wandering it’s narrow streets I found much visual inspiration.
The city’s history was palpable as I crossed the cobblestoned lanes and read numerous plaques. It was impossible to pick a favorite house as the Charleston Style crept into my consciousness.
We entered through formal gardens to explore the interior of this exquisite home restored to it’s 1808 state. The imposing stairway kept drawing me away from the docent’s informative and entertaining tour. The contributions of Charleston’s enslaved population was enlightening and a recurring theme that was addressed wherever we visited. Russell was an active participant in the African slave trade and made his fortune importing and exporting rice, indigo, cotton and tobacco.
THE PLANTATIONS
Within close proximity to the seaport of Charleston are several plantations that are open to visitors. The bountiful cash crops of the day generated great wealth for opportunistic families. Coupled with the readily available labor force, the reality of how these historic sites functioned is both fascinating and disturbing. Walking around these verdant and opulent estates, it was hard for me to separate the harshness of the history of the Low Country from the bucolic beauty of my surroundings. I felt like a “Yankee” on foreign soil. I could enjoy capturing the visuals, I devoured some great meals, and I shared some fun moments with family. But, I felt out of place.
Founded in 1681, this is one of America’s oldest working farms. Still inhabited on occasion, sadly only a few rooms in the main house were open to the public. The oak lined entry road is well known and a popular spot for wedding photographers. We walked around the slave quarters and viewed the exhibits. I found the Hall a little too touristy for my tastes, but it was a decent introduction to plantation life for this New Yorker. We took a guided motorized tour around the grounds and saw a lot of planting but no gators…
America’s first fully realized Palladian residence, Drayton Hall stands out because it is unrestored. First occupied in the 1750’s, it sits empty yet full of character. I lingered behind the tour group to capture the spirit of the space and to quietly absorb the colors and textures of time. Drayton’s empire was built on rice, indigo, cattle and pigs. The 350 acre plantation prospered through the labors of the enslaved. It felt like a very lonely place…
After touring the house we took a short walk down to the Ashley River. You could see the Palladian windows through the moss covered trees behind us. My mind drifted and I wondered what was upstream. I scanned the opposite bank. Still no gators…
Cruise ships were docked in town several days during our stay. This is a nice place to visit. Restaurants that were recommended to us were fantastic. The weather was perfect. The people were friendly. It is a city where you are drawn in by the architectural detail, the historic relevance and the slow, deliberate Southern pace. I love the detail, I love history, but that pace! I wonder why the West, with a similar cadence, has such a great appeal to me. Maybe the difference is in the history…
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